Frequently asked questions
This page answers first the questions that hang on no rug in particular: what we keep and for how long, what we turn down, what becomes of a rug we buy. The technical questions stay on the trade pages.

What is kept where
The site is organised by trade, not by keyword. Four families: buying hand-knotted rugs, restoration in the workshop, cleaning by hand, and fitted carpet on site. Each has a main page, which describes the method and its limits, and sub-pages for particular cases: the fringes, the holes, colour rework, stain removal, animal odours, staircases, offices. When a question concerns only one of those cases, the answer sits on the sub-page, where it can be longer and more technical than here.
Alongside the trades, two sets of pages sell nothing. The origin entries, under oriental rugs, describe the producing regions, their knots, their dyes and their usual formats. The guides deal with the problems met at home: moths, damp, everyday care, what should on no account be poured on wool. They can be read without having anything to ask us. That leaves the town pages: they say only where we travel and on what terms. They add no technique to that of the corresponding trade, and there is no reason to read them if your town is already on the round.
The questions on this page, and the others
What follows reads in two stages. First the general questions, the ones that come up before the rug has even been seen: how long it takes, visiting the workshop, insurers, what becomes of a rug we buy, the case of the one that is worth nothing. Then the questions particular to each family, taken as they stand from the four service pages and grouped by trade — that is where the temperature of a wool bath, the fate of a machine-made rug or the behaviour of a fitted carpet after washing are to be found.
What this site does not say
No prices are shown, and that is not affectation. In restoration, the price follows the number of knots to be redone: it depends on the knot density, the material, the number of colours to be matched and where the damage lies. A rate per square metre would mean nothing. A purchase, for its part, follows the origin, the age, the fineness of the knotting, the nature of the dyes and the condition. In both cases the figure comes after the photographs, never before.
Nor are there any testimonials, any customer names, any promised result. An old stain may not come out, a dye bleed may leave a halo, a felted pile does not open up again. Those limits are written on the pages concerned, before the quote rather than after the invoice.
If your question is not here
The telephone answers short questions and emergencies. Anything that calls for a figure goes through photographs and a written reply, within 48 working hours: the quote form says which ones to take and how to measure. The principle is the same either way: we look at the back before saying anything at all.
Frequently asked questions
Frequently asked questions
How long do you keep my rug?
It depends on the work. A hand wash is above all drying time: laid flat under ventilation, a rug dries in under 24 hours, and the rest of the delay comes down to the collection and delivery round. A restoration is counted differently: we re-knot by hand, knot by knot, and a loss the size of a palm already runs to thousands of knots. We give a date at the moment of collection, and we tell you if it moves.
Can I come and see the workshop?
By appointment, yes. It is not a shop: nothing is on display, the floor is taken up with wet rugs and the way through is narrow. A visit makes sense when it serves a purpose — deciding on a colour rework in front of the piece, seeing a reweaving under way on your own rug. Otherwise, photographs before and after say the same thing without your having to travel.
Do you work with insurers after water damage?
We supply what a loss adjuster needs: a written condition report, dated photographs and a quote itemised line by line. It is the document that travels, not us. We are not a party to the policy and we do not negotiate on your behalf: it is your insurer who decides what is covered. One practical point matters more than the rest — do not leave a wet rug rolled up in a corner waiting for the adjuster, mould takes hold within days. See water damage.
Do you take rugs that are very dirty, mouldy or that smell of animals?
Yes, and rather before a home attempt than after one. A diffuse smell — wet dog, basket, mustiness — goes with the bath like any other organic soiling. Urine is another matter: uric acid crystallises in the foundation, does not dissolve in water, and the smell returns with the first damp. It calls for an enzymatic treatment, not a wash. Mould is less simple. It can be cleaned off, but it has sometimes already attacked the fibre and leaves a brown stain that will not come out, above all on pale grounds. We say what will go and what will stay before wetting anything at all. The detail of urine treatment is on the pet odours page.
And if my rug is worth nothing?
We tell you so, and it costs nothing: the valuation is free and commits you to nothing further. A machine-made rug, a tufted one, a recent decorative piece — there is no specialist buyer for that, and we do not pretend otherwise. No market value does not mean no interest: a rug you are attached to is well worth a wash.
Can a machine-made or tufted rug be washed?
Sometimes, and it is decided on the back. A machine-woven rug with a textile backing can be washed. A tufted one, whose pile is glued to a cloth, takes immersion badly: the adhesive ages, softens in water, and the backing can come away or split into two. We look at the back, we say yes or no, and we do not take that risk on your behalf. Buying and restoration, for their part, do not apply to these rugs at all.
Do you work for managing agents, offices and hotels?
Yes, it is a regular part of the fitted carpet work. The constraints there are first of all a matter of hours: we work in the evening, at night or at the weekend, and the method is chosen according to the time the premises have to reopen. For the common parts of a building, a plan of the areas to be treated, the type of fitting and access to a water point are enough to price the job.
Can I have a rug valued without selling it?
Yes, and a share of the rugs we see goes back home with its owner. One useful point: what we give is a cash purchase price, not an appraisal for an insurer nor a certificate of authenticity. Those are two different exercises, and the second is not done from photographs. See free valuation.
What becomes of a rug you buy?
It is first washed by hand, which often brings back colours that dust had kept grey. Then we look at whether it is worth a restoration: fringes, selvedges, losses. Some deserve one, others sell on as they are to whoever knows how to do the work. After that it goes back to the antique rug market, to dealers, to collectors or to the saleroom. It is that circuit that allows us to pay on the day of collection, in cash up to €3,000 and by instant transfer above that.
Do you sell rugs as well?
No retail sale: no window, no stock shown to the public, no online catalogue. The workshop buys, washes, restores and maintains, and the pieces we buy go back to the trade and the salerooms, not to private buyers. If you are looking to buy an antique rug in Brussels, the antiques market of the Sablon and the place du Jeu de Balle are a few hundred metres from here, and that is where we will send you.
Frequently asked questions
Sell your rug
Do you buy machine-made rugs?
No. A machine-woven or tufted rug has no collectors' value and finds no specialist buyer. The close-up of the knotting is enough to settle it: on a hand-knotted rug, every knot is visible on the back and the design appears sharp there; on a machine-made one, the back is smooth, regular, often backed with a glued cloth.
My rug is moth-eaten and stained. Is it still worth anything?
Yes, in most cases. The larva eats the keratin in the wool, not the cotton of the warp: the structure holds, and a moth-eaten area can be re-knotted. The rug keeps its origin, its density and its age, that is to say the essence of what makes its price. Do not throw it away before showing it to us.
How soon am I paid?
On the day of collection. Cash up to €3,000, instant transfer or banker's draft above that, the same day. You leave with a detailed receipt setting out the declared origin, the dimensions, the condition and the price.
Do you travel outside Brussels?
Yes: eighteen towns in Brussels, the Flemish periphery and Walloon Brabant, as well as central Antwerp and central Liège. For a whole lot or an important piece, we go further. Send the photographs and we will tell you whether the journey is justified.
Frequently asked questions
Rug restoration
Does the rug have to be washed before it is restored?
Almost always. The mineral dust shut in at the base of the pile cuts the fibres with every step and throws off the colour matching. Hand washing therefore comes before restoration — except where an area is at risk of tearing when handled: that one is made safe first.
How do I obtain a valuation?
From photographs, to be sent by e-mail or by message: the whole rug laid flat, the back, and a close-up of each damaged area with a coin or a tape measure for scale. We reply with a costing within 48 working hours.
Can a moth-eaten rug really be repaired?
In the great majority of cases, yes. The larva digests the keratin in the wool and leaves the cotton warp intact: the structure still holds. It is the very large grazed areas, where not enough design is left to match to, that pose a real problem.
Do you restore machine-made rugs?
A tufted or machine-woven rug, with its back coated in glue, cannot be re-knotted: there is no knot to redo, only a glued layer. We say so from the photograph rather than charging for a repair that will not hold.
Frequently asked questions
Rug cleaning
Can I wash my rug with a hired shampooer?
It is the best way to ruin it. These machines inject hot water and an alkaline detergent without ever rinsing with clean water or spinning. On wool, that gives at best a sticky residue that calls the dust back, at worst a dye bleed and the beginnings of felting.
How do I know whether my rug needs washing?
Lift a corner and tap the back with the flat of your hand, over a light-coloured floor. If a grey cloud settles, the mineral dust has already reached the base of the pile. A second sign: colours that look veiled. That is almost never fading, it is a grey film sitting on the pile.
Is my rug likely to shrink or bleed?
That is precisely what the colourfastness test is there to find out before wetting. If it shows a transfer, we fix the colours, lower the temperature of the bath and shorten the immersion. Shrinkage, for its part, comes from felting: it is avoided by staying below 30 °C and drying flat, never hung up.
Dry cleaning or washing in water?
Dry cleaning does not go down as far as the foundation, where the mineral dust, the moth frass and the organic residues sit. It gets you out of trouble on a piece that water would threaten — very fragile silk, unstable dye, a painted rug. Everywhere else, it is the full bath followed by rinsing to neutrality that does the work.
Frequently asked questions
Wall-to-wall carpet cleaning
How long does a fitted carpet stay damp after washing?
That depends on the technique and the ventilation, not on the area. Encapsulation uses very little water and returns a surface to use quickly; hot water extraction takes longer. We choose the technique to suit your window, and we blow air across it until the end.
Can cleaning damage a fitted carpet?
Yes, in three ways: too much water reaching the substrate and lifting it, too alkaline a pH dulling a wool fibre, too aggressive a rotary brush opening up the pile. That is why we identify the fibre and the type of fitting before bringing out a machine.
Do you also clean wool fitted carpets?
Yes, with a different protocol. Wool is washed between pH 5 and 7: above pH 8, the alkalinity lifts the scales of the fibre, which swells and yellows. And it felts as soon as the temperature goes above 40 °C. So we work colder and gentler than on polyamide.
Should a fitted carpet whose corridors are darker be replaced?
Not necessarily, but you should know what you are buying. A dark corridor is dirt plus flattened fibre. Cleaning removes the first and lifts the second a little; the difference recedes without disappearing. We say so beforehand, not afterwards.
Or call us directly on +32 478 05 84 84